PNG Expedition: May-June

Location: 149-02-00E, 9-03-00S, PNG
Time: 8.00pm, 30th June

Plans to reach Musa Point were dashed by a fickle afternoon breeze. Instead of the usual ESE, it fluttered in from the NW. The cheek of it!I've pulled up west of Aku village near the mouth of a smallish river. The view from the inside of the tent is the best I can manage tonight as there is a blanket of sandflies outside just waiting for flesh. They've been terrible, according to William, since the big floods last year. William was spearing fish when he found me. He can't afford a net at the moment, but he'd managed to get plenty for dinner in about 20 minutes. I've just said goodnight to many of his extended family as they weren't far behind in coming back from the sago plantation. The sago takes a lot of processing to get it into edible form and it looks like back breaking work. The whiff of Aerogard is putting me to sleep...

Location: Tufi, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 29th June

"How much to paddle me to Vanimo?" I asked Charles, only half joking. Charles and other local guides regularly take visitors from the dive resort or passing cruise ships on short paddling tours up the fjords. It's been the perfect place for my mini-recuperation, but with signs of improvement in the knee, I'm ready to leave in the morning. Simon and Sharon of the Tufi Dive Resort have been, in the tradition of all my encounters in PNG, welcoming and wonderful. Many thanks. I bought 30 packets of Tiny Teddy's and 10 tubs of peanuts from the trade store and am calling it a resupply. Everything else is dry, clean and charged up to give me as fresh a start as possible. If I have an incident free run to the northern border I might be there in as little as 40 days. With that thought half forming in my mind I might need your help with the next stage of my evil plan. From Vanimo I will fly back to Cairns and buy an inexpensive bicycle. With a kayak trailer bolted to the back of it I will ride down to Melbourne visiting schools and enjoying lime thickshakes at every opportunity. So if you have, or know how to get, a kayak trailer for a bike, email me at andrew@expeditionclass.com. If you're in a school on the east coast I'll let you know the exact route and itinerary as soon as possible- which will probably be about a day before I pass through.

Location: Tufi, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 28th June

November last year was a disastrous time in Oro Province. On this branch of the Musa River the flood waters rose seven metres. The villagers had warning and moved towards the mountains with whatever they could carry. Entire villages were wiped out with perhaps one or two houses left standing. The school here succumbed to the dark, sediment loaded torrent. This makeshift tin roofed shelter stands in its place. However it hasn't taken the vegetation as long to regain its footing. Gardens high with banana, sweet potato, melons, tapioca, sugar cane, and corn thrive on the freshly laid layer of rich soil. I hitched a ride with Simon and others this morning while they looked at the possibilities of putting in a guest house for keen fishermen. I was acting as the test pilot tourist and gave it two thumbs up. Just watch out for the crocodiles when you come, I'm told the river is thick with them.

Location: Tufi, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 27th June

"Rising sea level... an evironmental concern" is the headline on the June 7-8 Weekend Courier. It goes on to say, "The rapid climatic changes occurring in our island paradise send a shiver down the spine." On a local level I'm told the heavy rain here at Tufi is unheard of at this time of year. The waterfalls cascading off the fjords should be well and truly dry by now. All around the coast people have told me that the weather is more unpredictable than it used to be. For a country with 80% subsistence farmers, who are very much attuned to and dependent on the weather patterns, it's a big concern. From that big concern to a much smaller and hairier one- my knee. Jurgen, another guest, gave me some different antibiotics to tide me over until the plane arrives (which sounds like about now). It's called cipro-something... any comment medical adviser?? In all seriousness, there's not much wrong with it- just the remnants of the cellulitis, virtually no pain, swelling, or restricted movement. It's just that I can't leave until I know which way it's going to turn. And lastly, to answer a question about how the sail is affixed to the kayak. Part of the plastic moulding has a small recess just forward of the snack hatch (when leaning forward it's arms length away). The mast simply wedges in that, and with the three fixed ropes and two steering ones anchoring it down, it's very solid. Even in the recent storm, it was trying desperately to take the kayak over before it was going to pull free or snap. Enjoy your weekend, I'm going snorkelling.

Location: Tufi, PNG
Time: 8.35pm, 26th June

Simon and Ian swap whopping big fibs after an afternoon of fishing. Fibbing in this way is quite okay students, it's only lying about important stuff that'll get you in trouble. The waters off Tufi are full of life. The local villagers depend largely on fish for the protein in their diet and what we didn't keep were given away on return. Catch of the day went to Simon with a 7-8kg spanish mackerel. One of the twice weekly flights is coming in tomorrow with my flucloxacillin. If I don't get on top of this infection soon there'll have to be a major strategic rethink. You can't mess around with these tropical bugs, nibble, nibble, nibble, and then BANG, your legs fall off in the night and your arms turn inside out. Nasty business.

Location: Tufi, PNG
Time: 4.45pm, 25th June

The fjords around Tufi are as steep as they are stunning. Aiden (front) and friends helped me carry (I only stopped to take this photo!) the Hope and Grace down the hill from Bauwame village where I slept last night. Following local canoe captains through tricky reefs, I found the regional centre, Tufi, around a few points. The Tufi Dive Resort manager, Simon, gave me a good price so I'm stopping for a few days. The infection in my leg hasn't quite settled yet so I went to the health centre for more antibiotics. We can't get the flucloxicillan for a few days because someone has taken the key to the dispensary to Popondetta by accident. I'll be on the amoxycillan until then. By the end of this I'll be one giant, crawling, drug resistant super bug, who devours anything too slow to get out of my way. Scary. But it won't be a hardship being stuck here- all I have to do is relax in soft chairs with fluffy pillows and eat fruit under fans. I can do that. And I heard today that there's been a coastal wind warning out for the last week due to a cyclone near the Solomon Islands. I'm putting the storm off Cape Vogel a few days ago down as, "Novice kayak sailor survives worst cyclone in (his) living memory." Would love to hear what some classrooms around Australia or elsewhere are up to while I've some time to kill.

Location: 149-18-30E, 9-04-00S, PNG
Time: 6.25pm, 24th June

The first hole turtle dug hit hard coral chunks. Not deep enough she sensed, and lumbered a few metres to dig site number two. Checking the surface sand with a thrust of the beak like nose, it seems soft enough. Get the back flippers working side to side, grabbing sand like an excavator and shoving it aside. Goes deeper this time but again hits immovable coral. Off to site number three, which happens to be the fireplace of the fishermen when they stay. I tell turtle that would be about the worst place to bury her eggs. She ignores me so I grab either side of her shell from behind. Flippers fly and I jump back. Turtle heads for water, I head for bed. Today was a long one across the bay to a small village near Tufi. Tomorrow I will pop around the corner to resupply and maybe spend the night at the hotel. Tonight I sleep above the pigs in the neatest village I've been lucky enough to stay in. It's beautiful, I'll get pictures tomorrow.

Location: 149-30-00E, 9-35-40S, PNG
Time: 6.30pm, 23rd June

Wall to wall mangroves have forced me into offshore exile. It's less an island than a glorified sandbar. It's low tide now but tonight I'll be less than a metre above sea level, and within 5 metres of salty ocean each side... if I'm reading the tide marks correctly. There are villages on the other side of the mangroves but I didn't spot any passages through. It's been an uneventful day of sailing and paddling with a fluctuating ESE wind. I missed lunch because the two times I went ashore to buy bananas, the villagers had none to sell. This seemed very unusual but apparently it had something to do with a school market at Mukawa. Lucky I had a big plate full of steak, prawns, fish, potato and salad with the Triton gang last night. I'll try and hunt them down again further up the coast!

Location: 150-00-00E, 9-38-00S, PNG
Time: 6.45pm, 22nd June

After yesterday's excitement I needed a fully catered, luxury cruiser, and quickly! I searched in the mangroves but only found fish. I looked on the reef, but again, no luck. Just when I thought my quest fruitless, I ate a paw paw. KAZAM. A luxury cruiser, Triton, appeared behind an island. Jim and Nancy welcomed me aboard for lunch and a wash. There was a type of light cheese in the salad that was particularly memorable. I said nothing of it, as I'm sure my scruffy habits needed no further introduction. Tonight I'm on the island and everyone (and everything) has come ashore for dinner. Promise I'll paddle further tomorrow. And hello to Ms Clymo and the Grade 6 class at Campbell Street. I think a free dress day fundraiser for Alotau Hospital is a marvellous idea. I'll set up a way to collect money and equipment when I return to Australia so just hold on to it for now, or maybe plan it for term 3?

Location: 150-01-20E, 9-44-50S, PNG
Time: 6.45pm, 21st June

At about 11.30 this morning I named my sail 'Temptation'. It was clutching more wind than I could handle and taking us careening across
the face of the storm. First there were big fat raindrops, splat, splat, millions of them. Then a few sweeps of warning wind yelling 'You're in big trouble now novice kayak sailor!' It came from the east and I was bearing north-west. I turned the paddle blade to dig and slide on top like an outrigger, and leant forward and across, bracing with all my weight. The speed made the rudder hum, the waves grew quickly and I fixed my concentration on the quarter they were bearing down from. A broken crest caught part of the sail and tipped us wildly, but we emerged upright and still hooting along. Twenty kilometres or more in each direction lay land. I leaned further forward and pushed into the racing water until my forearms cramped. 'I'm a novice sailor,' I screamed, 'I'm not ready for this part yet.' The leading edge of the flurry lasted maybe an hour, probably half of that? The back end continued all day and wasn't much better. Visibility was down to few kilomteres so I was on compass until near landfall. I came in just short of Cape Vogel, following a dingy through a patch of reef that wasn't breaking. They'd been hit by the storm and nearly swamped. We huddled around a coconut shell fire and exchanged horror stories. The dictionary of Hughes' Misadventures has a new entry tonight; Terror (adj)- when a novice kayak sailor attempts an open water crossing with a kayak sail he can't dismantle and is swiped by an unexpected and brutal storm.

Location: 150-13-00E, 10-7-30S, PNG
Time: 6.45pm, 20th June

Wings like a swallow carry the flying fish skimming above the water for 20-30-40 metres at a time. Stafford said the old people used to be able to talk them into flying into their fishing nets. I'm under the mango tree in a village I haven't asked the name of yet. Stafford is my host, he's 62 with the muscles of a retiring football player. I bought 3 papaya and a big bunch of bananas for 2 kina (less than a dollar). For the first hour this morning I was so chuffed with the new sail that I sat idly watching the land drift by. Unfortunately the wind alone wasn't going to be enough to carry me here, so I dipped the paddle as well.
I'm now in the perfect position to cut north-west across the huge bay to Cape Vogel. Just as the sun was setting I could see what looked like a string of islands on the distant horizon- that's the undulations of the cape. I reckon it's good for a novice sailor like myself to be able to see his target.

Location: 150-37-20E, 10-13-50S, PNG
Time: 4.30pm, 19th June

Feeling weak and pathetic I gave myself a day off. The plan was to lie in the tent and groan sadly every so often. But then John came long in his fishing canoe and we decided to make a sail instead. Using washed up sticks and fishing line, we lashed a simple frame together and I cut a corner from my spare tarpaulin for the sail. There's a line running from the top of the mast to the bow and two from each end of the cross spar straight down for stability. Two more lines running from the cross spar allow me to set the aspect and tie it all down firmly. We gave it a 20 m test run and it flies along. It's a disaster waiting to happen, but until then just call me Commodore Hughes. Tomorrow we set sail.

Location: 150-37-20E, 10-13-50S, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 18th June

It must've been the dodgy dagwood dog. From midnight to 6am I clattered up and down the miserable pebbly beach with dire-rear. By the time Morris and family awoke I was barely a husk of my former self. I took antibiotics but I can't imagine how they stayed in one spot long enough to be effective? After a few hours respite in the morning I felt well enough to paddle. MISTAKE. Cutting across the bay, kilometres from shore, devoid of energy, the stomach pains resumed. With the wind behind I paddled on like a pathetically pained rag-doll, vowing to hold on until landfall on the distant island. Grinding into the broken coral shore, finally, I leapt out of the kayak. I fear the clenched explosion that followed has killed half the fish and many of the mollusc species on the reef. Setting up camp took double time with frequent and contemplative rests. With tablets and a long lie down this afternoon I've stabilised, but i dare not eat yet. Woe is me, unfair is the world. So if you're feeling fit and bouncy right now, be thankful, and watch what you eat.

Location: 150-39-30E, 10-16-30S, PNG
Time: 7.00pm, 17th June

When Rhonda and Bob invited me up for lunch at Taliwa Dive Resort I hit pay dirt. After my fifth slice of banana cake Rhonda got the hint and found me a doggy bag. I left with chocolate slice, banana cake and bread rolls in my greedy little mitts. The resort is tucked in a limestone reef fringed bay, and is perhaps even more magnificent than it sounds. Paddling onward I spied the Triton (pictured) tucked away and went in to ingratiate, pardon me, investigate. I joined the cruisers on land as they walked up to a skull cave- which is as the name suggests. Feigning injury I wangled my way on board to see the doctor. Cody, the labradoodle took a liking to me but my pirateering ended when the chopper came in and I had to paddle a safe distance away. Realising it was nearly dark I continued up the beach and found a friendly beachside family to stay with. It's been a day of contrasts, and yes, that's an understatement.

Location: 150-53-00E, 10-13-30S, PNG
Time: 6.20pm, 16th June

The sailing canoe 'Saipoi' (meaning victory) and her four crew landed to collect firewood and check out the sea kayak. First one they'd seen. Lionel was taking family members from Normanby Island down to Alotau. Tonight they will continue to East Cape. If you look at the dot on the map you'll notice that today is extra special. I'm on a delightful little island past East Cape. Tomorrow, and for the rest of the journey, I'll be heading north-west. The once diabolical south-east trade wind becomes my reliable friend. No more 3am wake ups and moonlight paddles. Blow hard and blow true, there's nothing sweeter than the wind up your clacker.

Location: 150-37-20E, 10-22-00S, PNG
Time: 5.20pm, 15th June

Even in a welcoming place like PNG, the people of Alotau and Milne Bay Province have a reputation for being special. It's true. I said my
goodbyes and thankyous at Masurina Lodge this morning and we loaded into the truck. By 9am I'd launched from Ian's place into a light sw-se breeze. I stayed close to shore to avoid the worsening wind as much as possible and have landed on a small island. It may be Killerton Island, which is the only one shown on my map, but I have doubts. A quiet afternoon to rest my, improved-beyond-measure-don't-worry-about-a-thing, knee. Rice and a substance called corned meat loaf for dinner in a minute. The replacement sunglasses aren't polarised, which is a shame on an overcast day like this. It lets the sea hold more secrets than usual. Great to be back on the water, hope you all had a great weekend.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 14th June

Just to be on the safe side I went back to the chemist for more gauze, bandages, tape and ibuprofen. Around the corner at Papindo's I jostled with last minute weekend shoppers for peanuts and tinned meat. Walking back to Masurina Lodge I stopped at the Battle of Milne Bay memorial. A nurse from the surgery ward passed on the road, she's had a week off with malaria. Sounded grim. The hospital was on the way home so I popped into the outpatients to see Dr Aiaker. It was quiet and the cubicle with 'Injection Room' painted above the door was empty. A few well aimed prods satisfied the doctor that I was well enough to continue paddling. It was like waking up from a dream. Skipping out the door, I was telling anyone who looked my way that I was recovered and, thankyou very much, but I'd be leaving tomorrow. And so I am.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 5.15pm, 13th June

The papaya outside isn't quite ready, and I'll be gone before it is. Most of the bags are packed and lined up patiently along the wall near the door. The big red one has peanuts, tins of tuna and rice, the yellow one just has rice, then there's the tent, solar panel, and clothes bag. The few bits and pieces I need to survive the hotel room can't be packed just yet, but the days are now within the fingers on one hand. I bought a new blanket, shirt, fishing line, and aluminium foil. If I can find the snorkelling gear tomorrow I'll declare myself equipped for duty. Had a call from embassy staff today to make sure everything was okay, which was thoughtful of them. From the little I've seen they do a great job. It'd be an interesting career wouldn't it, especially if you were a covert spy sheltering under the diplomatic umbrella. Wonder if there's any spies in PNG? I've been watching too much TV.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 4.30pm, 12th June

Remember a week or two ago when Christian gave me a bag of medical supplies? Today I went to the chemist to get even more, no prescription
needed. Now I have fungalfootacillin, runnygutsiclav, rottenlimbsacin, explodingeyeaplan, and stinkearsoxin. Dr Aiaker rang to check on my progress. When I told him I'd been jabbing needles into the plasma-pool on my knee to drain the pus-puddle (you'd need to be a doctor to understand the medical terminology), he sounded worried and ordered me to stop it before I hit a blood vessel. I asked if that had anything to do with boats and what they might look like if I came across one. Despite the doctors concern, it helped take the pressure out of the joint. But shhh, let's not tell my chief medical adviser, I don't need another lecture. Knee bend beyond 90 degrees, only a week to go...

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 11th June

The thigh bone connects to the knee bone, the knee bone connects... well it looks to me like the knee bone just floats about in jelly. When I had the tune up and oil change yesterday they took an x-ray. Sometimes these infections get naughty and sneak into the bones. As we can see from the photo there is no bone infection, but I am worried about the banana tree growing in my shin. In my abundant spare time I have been reading Climate Change Basics by Nick Dallas, and making frozen coffee as an afternoon treat. I'll leave you with a quote in the book from Terri Swearingen (tough name for a kid), 1997 Goldman Environmental Prize recipient (Google it?)- "We are living on this planet as if we had another one to go to."

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 10th June

Dr Aiaker took this picture just before pulling out a mean looking needle. I suggested that we start with a smaller one, perhaps loaded
with local anaesthetic? Dr Aiaker pretended not to understand English and eased the hollow tipped spike into the soft patch on the side of my knee. I clutched my thigh and cursed my growing needle phobia. The syringe slowly filled with rusty old blood. When the needle was withdrawn the flow continued, and judging by the doctor's reaction, much faster than expected. Ooh, gruesome but good. I took my new prescription to the revenue window, paid the 6 kina, and wobbled down to the dispensary to get the drugs. The sun was out for the first time in recent memory so I walked the short distance back to Masurina Lodge. I'll be right in a week.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 9th June

When I'm ready for launch, it'll be at Ian's place down on the waterfront. After a cuppa on the deck, we went for a tour of town. I sat in the back seat with my leg up, looking every bit the chauffer driven tourist. I located the chemist, the supermarket, the dive shop (it appears that I gave away my mask and snorkel), and the post office. It's the Queens birthday holiday so nothing was open. It feels like more fluid has formed to the side of the knee so I'm going back to hospital to have it checked out tomorrow. Hopefully they can drain it and speed up recovery. If my chief medical adviser in Australia reads this tonight, please chiefly advise.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 4.00pm, 8th June

Scabwatch reports the formation of healthy pink tissue and a halving of the scabby hole. Full closure expected within hours, but Scabwatch is no doctor. Swelling of the outer thigh reducing, with limited muscle flex now possible. Knee bend restricted by swelling, but Scabwatch walking without detectable grimace for up to 100 metres. Skin peeling and itchiness are being taken as good signs, but again, Scabwatch is no doctor. As usual, predicting one further week for full recovery, or, as Scabwatch tells people, "Few more days and she'll be right, look, I can stand on my bung leg!" People now look with less pity. A small part of Scabwatch misses this, but his overwhelming sense is that he will go insane if not paddling soon. Or is it already too late to save Scabwatch?

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 3.00pm, 7th June

Ian dropped past the dining room (which I hobbled to without crutches), to loan me a book on PNG forest management. Perfect timing as I was scheduled to speak on PNG radio this afternoon about a 5000 mangrove planting that the media association were conducting for World Environment Day (or Hour, or Week...?). I was thus able to say something completely plagiarised about potentially very serious implications for the majority subsistence-based population due to local climate change impacts. In particular, the likely increased humidity, coastal inundation, storm surges, salt water intrusion of coastal groundwater systems, water table elevation, changes to coastal landforms, and general decrease in human comfort. That done, I said I still had a sore leg, but am looking forward to fending off yet more microbial flesh destroyers in the near future. Then I had a sleep.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 6th June

A picture from Bona Bona Island (more than a week past), to spare you the uninteresting hotel room. The last of the swelling is being
stubborn. When people see it they still wince and I say it's a week away from recovery. I've been saying that for the past 4 days now! But do not worry Mr Archer, you have not purchased the classroom PNG wall map in vain, I promise. For other teachers using the journey in class and looking for a map, I'm using the International Travel Maps: PNG, 1:2000000. And just for the record, 8 hours of TV is not worth even 8 minutes of paddling, and 8 minutes of reading Moby Dick adds 8 days to my life expectancy.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 5.45pm, 5th June

The kayak is down behind the laundry, Willie said it would be safer there while I was in hospital. Tomorrow I'll go and do a stocktake. When I left Isidiudiu a week ago, I left lots of bits and pieces to Jack and his family. Problem is, I can't recall exactly how generous I was? In the midst of a fever and scattered thoughts, I was fairly certain I'd be flying back to Cairns for treatment. Whatever could be easily replaced, I left behind... I think. I just hope I kept the bottle of metho and replacement rudder cable, they'll be hard to replace. The rain has been belting down all day. It was especially heavy for the few minutes it took to get in and out of the ute while I did the bank and visa errands downtown. I'm still spending most of the time with the leg up, but am improving quickly. It's the small things I notice, like being able to lift my foot off the bed without grabbing it and guiding it to the floor. Eating in the dining room instead of bed is also a major bonus.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 4th June

Dominic volunteers at the physio section of the hospital, where I nicked the last set of crutches from. He came to check how they fitted, and I had to admit that I'm not using them much. All the moving yesterday left my leg tender, but the area of redness has reduced, no more high temperatures, and my pulse is nearly back to normal. Just need to lie around more and maybe start doing a few gentle knee bends. It's going to be stiff for a while.

Chris Abel said his shipping agent in Brisbane might be able to handle freight from there if we can organise a collection and get them taken that far. I'll keep working on it.

Location: Masurina Lodge - Alotau, PNG
Time: 6.30pm, 3rd June

Five days in the surgical ward at Alotau General Hospital, gallons of pethadine, antibiotic, nursing hours and care. Total cost- 30 kina, that's about 12 $AUS. They gave a great deal and asked for nothing in return, and even let me hobbleout on their only set of crutches. If another set is needed they have to ask the carpenter to build them. Dr Aiyaka described just a few of the many difficulties of giving good medical care here. The surgical wards top urgent needs are; crutches, Thomas splints, blood pressure machines, pulse oximeters, suction machines, gauze/bandages, and POP wool/casts actually he had to write them down for me as I'm easily confused! I haven't had time to think about it but wouldn't it be great to organise a package with some of these things to make their work, and patients ordeals, just a little easier. Send me your ideas and I'll let you know if we can come up with something. It's only one ward in one hospital, but I'd like to help. I'll start by giving the crutches back in a few days!

The photo's of the pick-up boat at Isidiudiu. Now that I'm past the worst, I'm up at Masurina Lodge with feet on bed and fan pumping (hospital was hot). I can hobbel around okay to look after myself, and as soon as the crater heals over and the last of the inflammation in the leg subsides, I'll continue paddling. I think seven days should do it (refer to past posts to gauge my success at predicting my medical future- not good!).

I'd like to say a special thanks to Chris Abel and the staff at Masurina Lodge for all their help. Chris was the man I asked Bec to call in Alotau to organise the rescue, which he did. He has also organised my meals in hospital, visited, and been incredibly dependable. I fell into safe hands. And thanks again for your messages, I can't reply, beyond these updates, until I return to Australia, but I read them all at least twice.

Location: Alotau Hospital, PNG
Time: 6pm, 2nd June

Warning: Medically graphic image and text in this report.

The Sister unwrapped the bandaging for the first time since Dr Aiaker (rhymes with kayaker) fossicked around in the pus-pit. The wound was deliberately kept open with packing, to allow any leftovers to find a way out. With packing removed (see photo), the deep and pleasingly star shaped hole filled with blood of the paddling, rather than pestilence, type- all deep red and healthy. This afternoon I've been able to bend to nearly 90 degrees and put weight down on all parts of the sole. Yep, I can walk again. Not in the style I used with devastating effect at my brothers wedding dance-off, but it's early days yet. Today I left the dark chamber of thunderbolts and long shadows, and entered the glittering dome of sago palm filtered sunlight. Here's a challenge for students- see if you can come up with a better way to describe the joyful transition from pain to relief. Like when you go to sleep with a headache and wake up refreshed. Describe that!

Late yesterday afternoon a tall Australian came to visit bearing gifts. Christian James has just finished volunteering as a nurse trainer here at the hospital, and off-loaded a big bag of pharmacy drugs onto me. To Cathy, my new chief medical adviser, you name it and I've got it, sometimes in triplicate. Thanks again for your kind thoughts, but I really am enjoying hospital life so don't worry about me. But do spare a thought for the young fellow next door who was sconed on the noggin with a slingshotted rock... sent by his own brother. Ouch.

Location: Alotau Hospital, PNG
Time: 4.50pm, 1st June

Not much to report from the sick bay. The swelling is down a bit but the redness moved into the groin area. Apparently I wasn't meant to put my foot THAT high. All the nasties drained straight down in no time. The staff from Masarina lodge (same crew who picked me up from the village) bring down three meals a day and I don't want for anything. An Aussie volunteer, Christopher, came to visit. He's a nurse trainer I think, he knows what I'm going through so it was good to compare notes. And apparently you can get heaps of good pharmacy drugs without a prescription so we drew up a list. I'll be as impregnable as a Melbourne forward line with my new kit bag. Thanks for the well wishes, they are the perfect thing to read when I tire of Moby Dick. Because it's written in 19th century American whaling slang I can only manage a few pages at a time.

Location: Alotau Hospital, PNG
Time: 5.50pm, 31st May

My concentration was limited to ten second counts... 25, 26 beats. Movements felt in slow motion and I called Jerry, Albert or forgot completely. Instructions were broken and trailed off into empty space as my mind fell from one strange idea to the next. Heat radiated from my knee like a glowing ember, I needed to get out of the tent quickly. The leg, swollen and incapable of moving all day suddenly didn't hurt. I crawled outside and onto the palm mat. Jack immediately began sponging me down with damp tea towels and the breeze blew mercifully strong. I didn't want to close my eyes. After 20 minutes the world came back into focus as heart rate dropped with temperature to 120. The rescue boat from Chris Abel's Alotau tour business arrived 2 hours later with painkillers and antibiotics. The kayak just fitted in and made an ideal backrest, while both legs rested on life jackets along the padded bench seat. For five hours the jarring bolts of pain could only be hidden so much. The driver apologised, I told him to go faster. To cut an even longer story shorter, my prediction of 100% recovery a few days ago proved a little 'Oscar over-optimistic'. I'm in Alotau Hospital where they knocked me out briefly to drain more pus. I'm recovering in the surgery ward. Special kudos to Gary Forrest from the Sunny Coast- cellulitis with staph infection it is- probably from insect bite. The doctor said a tube-like black thing drained out and he couldn't decide if it was a foreign object or congealed blood. The pain, even with pethadeine is slow to subside, and my temperature and sweats are up and down. Apart from that I'm in rude good health and in a week will decide about continuing. Right now I'd just like to be walking around again- I make for a terrible patient cooped up like this.

Very massive and continuous thanks to James and Bec for organising the rescue boat, Cathy and Matt for medical and logistical support, Jack Buia, his family and the entire Isadiudiu village for giving more care than I could have hoped for. Jack was even ready to paddle 150km to Alotau to return the kayak! And my apologies to those I know would have worried. I'll keep the posts coming daily or for as long the nurses agree to wheel me outside for satellite reception. At least now I have plenty of time to read Moby Dick.

HOSPITAL STAY
Time: 6.45pm, 30th May
No updates from Andrew directly as he faces three days in hospital with an antibiotic drip in his arm. Here in Adelaide we've never had so many satellite phone calls before but unfortunately they are always brief. As soon as he is able he will fire up the computer and send his own words and images!

SPECIAL UPDATE
Time: 8.15am, 30th May
Andrew is currently in Alotau receiving medical treatment. He has been diagnoised with cellulitis (thanks Gary for your earlier email diagnosis) and the full extent of the injury is being investigated.

It appears Jack is off the hook - the kayak was able to be squeezed onto the boat that collected Andrew yesterday afternoon.

An update will be posted on the website from Andrew in the coming days.

SPECIAL UPDATE
Time: 6.20pm, 29th May
Andrew is currently being transported by boat to Alotau for urgent medical attention. This morning at 5.30am Communications HQ (Adelaide, South Australia) received a satellite call from Andrew to explain that his condition had deteriorated overnight (the infection had spread, with the majority of his leg swollen and tender) and he was seeking assistance in arranging an evacuation. This assistance came from Chris Abel of Masurina Lodge in Alotau who very kindly chartered a boat and sent vital antibiotics and pain relief. The boat collected Andrew late this afternoon and is expected in Alotau this evening.

Due to the need for a small, rapid vessel Andrew has left his kayak in the capable hands of Jack at Isu Diudiu Village who, Andrew tells us is planning to paddle it some 120km to Alotau for him.

Thanks all round to those who have helped Andrew particularly Chris Abel, the kind locals of Isu Diudiu Village and the Australian Embassy and Foreign Affairs staff.

Location: Camp 16 150-6-00E, 10-39-30S, PNG
Time: 6.10pm, 28th May

As transcribed by Andrew for Jerry Jack.
"You paddled and came and found a lady fishing in the reef. So she told you to come up here to have a rest. After that I and my brother came and we saw you washing, so we said, 'It must be an Australian person.' Okay. We stayed and you started to squeeze your sore and blood start to bleed. It was a big boil. So after that we has to walk around the area so the pus would come out. Okay. We came, we were sitting down and the lady from the reef bring you food. After eating you come into your camp and sleep."

But I didn't get much sleep because Jerry is full of more beans than a Mexican bean factory. After a frightfully painful day my fortunes turned. From a distance I spotted a commercial fishing boat (the first since Port Moresby). I headed in to ask for a ride to the doctor at Alotau. I'd had enough and I was asking for help. As I unwrapped my knee Jack said very simply, 'It's a boil, shouldn't be wrapped up like that.' The swelling has caused a secondary injury to the back of my knee from the cutting in today. The boil itself was as Jerry described, but I taught him new words like 'disgusting, oozing, not pretty, and indescribable relief.' Thanks for all your medical input too- I feel a dill for having to ask now! A BOIL. By tomorrow I should be 100%. It's
been a wonderful day after all.

Location: Camp 15 Gadogadowa, PNG
Time: 1.30pm, 27th May

It's been 5 days since the first symptoms of the mystery knee ailment. It began as a small, yellow pus-filled lump on my left knee. After draining it and applying antibiotic cream, I thought no more of it. Next day the redness grew to 20 cent piece size and it was hot and sensitive to touch. Applied more cream and thought perhaps it was a small coral infection from snorkelling on that lovely island. It began to make walking just a little tentative. For the past three days the area of swelling and hypersensitivity has been over the entire kneecap, with progressively less tender area moving out to an area equal to both my hands spread out. The original pus-filled cyst has redeveloped with same fluid and today another one came up beside it. Am keeping them drained and clean. Putting any pressure on leg, especially walking is very painful. Knee bend is restricted to 30 hard won degrees. After finding a dead husk of a spider in cockpit (hard to tell how long it had been there), I am suspicious of spider bite. There are no other symptoms, except resting heart rate is around 75 when it is usually between 50-60. Have done sensible thing today and stayed tent bound with leg slightly raised (and reading Moby Dick). It's raining and blowing a gale which has made the decision easier. The reason for these nasty details and the odd photo is that I'd really like a medical opinion and advice on best treatment. If you're a doctor, know a doctor, have had a similar condition, or have read Moby Dick (I think it's going to be an excellent book), let me know your thoughts. Any info is welcome, nothing I try seems to help. For self treatment I have the following; bactobran ointment, fasigyn antibiotics, riamet and larium for malaria, anti-inflammatory geland tablets, bandages, panadeine (running low), antiseptic cream, strapping tape, paw-paw ointment, blistex, toothpaste, Berocca, and heaps of coconuts. I will try experimental therapy, and will gladly cut my leg off with pocket knife and scissors if you say so. Awaiting your reply. Note to parents- No cause for concern, am being well looked after by Alfred's family with sweet tea and sago biscuits.

Location: Camp 14 Gadogadowa, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 26th May

There's a small fire burning beside my tent. Paul Asia lit it, he assures me it won't get out of control and roast me like one of the pigs in the pen. I trust him, I have no choice! Short day from Bona Bona, around Eagle point to here at Gadogadowa. Alfred's family have let me camp on the beach in front of their place. Three families share the narrow sandspit, all gardening, fishing and hunting in the hills. A strong wind came up early today and may blow for a few more. The knee is still badly swollen but the sharp pains have turned to bone deep stiffness. Might get a few kms in early tomorrow, there's a deserted island I have my eye on.

Location: Camp 13 Bona Bona Island, PNG
Time: 6.50pm, 25th May

I've spent all my coconut juice today. The plan was to find an island on the nearside of Orangerie Bay (35 km wide), pull up early and rest my knee. Whatever bit it has pumped in a dose of pure pain. Paddling is okay but walking is a struggle. First island was closed out with a wave wrapping all the way around. On the second I met a family of shark fisher people who'd just caught and chopped up four good sized ones. I wasn't in a talkative mood with a swollen knee so I bid them farewell and began across the bay after all. Calm conditions until final 5km and then very windy. The only part I enjoyed about that was the last 4 seconds when I heard the sand scraping up the hull. Exhausted and on Bona Bona Island.

Location: Camp 12 149-28-00E, 10-22-00S, PNG
Time: 5.35pm, 24th May

"I'd have to chop it down." Frank, a fraction on the tubby side, said of getting cocunuts from up high. We continued touring Loupom Is. as I explained that I too lack the skills needed to scale the coconut tree. Laughing, I loaded the water bags and set off again. Across Amazon Bay the coastline changed dramatically with the steep, forested hills plunging straight into the blue ocean. Small pockets of sand marked villages and cultivated hillsides betrayed a gardening culture. With a bung knee (not sure but might be spider bite?) and an infected blister making paddling difficult, I pulled into a beach. Dodi Manau and his family were working their extensive garden and said I could pitch the tent. We chewed sugar cane, got coconut (Dodi's son CAN climb!) and exchanged sweet potato for some of my surplus rice. The only way in or out is by boat so these people need to be incredibly self sufficient.

Location: Camp 11 149-10-30E, 10-16-00S, PNG
Time: 5.45pm, 23rd May

The rudder flipped up in preparation. Paddling hard on the back of a larger shorebreak, I came through to the inside where I caught a smaller wave. The kayak bounced sideways as I braced lightly towards shore. 'All going well so far,' I thought to myself, glancing at the large crowd gathered on the beach. "NO, NO!" I yelled in vain as a couple of kids came bounding out to greet me. It's easy to break a leg if you're on the wrong side of a loaded kayak. One little one grabbed a deck line just as the kayak overcame him. 'I've gone and killed him,' I thought as he went under. But no thank goodness, he surfaced still holding on and with a grin from ear to ear. I'm currently in a remote area which sees few visitors. I filled up my water bladders (to answer an email question- I have about 20L capacity and have filled up at villages like this one from either water tanks or ground water wells), and relaunched for a few more hours into the wind. Reckon I did close to 40km today, it's taken 11 hours. Camped now on warm black sand which should soothe the sore muscles tonight.

Location: Camp 10 148-52-30E, 10-19-30S, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 22nd May

When I saw the flash of golden sand on this little offshore island, I turned hard right and headed straight for it. With a left hand reef break to watch from the beach, and oodles of coral for one kayaker, it's my best camp yet.

Paddled in calm conditions from 4.30am to 10.00am and the balance of the day has been snorkelling, rubbing dead skin off the soles of my feet with washed up coral and... um, that's about it actually. Tomorrow I'll head out of the protection of the reefs and into Table Bay. Many fishermen have warned me of the treacherous waves in this 40km wide bay, so I might get a surf landing. That means I'll probably tip over and lose a sponge.

Location: Camp 9 148-43-00E, 10-10-15S, PNG
Time: 6.30pm, 21th May

Besides the twittering birds the only noise is the tide slithering up the mudflat towards the small sandy beach where I'm camped. Behind is an abandoned schoolhouse on what I think is an island, but perhaps we're connected on the other side? Today was five hours of excellent paddling from 4.15am-9.15am. Then I talked to Mr Woolley on the radio and it all turned pear shaped. The wind came up and it was five further hours of hard slog. Would've camped much sooner but the dirty old mangroves didn't open up. When I stopped at a village they gave me 12 small bananas. I ate them while cursing my ill fortune at being shin deep in fine black mud. It seems I misjudged the water depth over a wide isthmus separating an island of dirty old mangroves from the much larger, and dirtier, posse on the mainland. The happy ending is that the schoolhouse has a water tank and I had a wash.

Location: Camp 8 Lalaurab Village, PNG
Time: 5.45pm, 20th May

There's enough fuel for the generator to run the lights but I'll be off to sleep soon anyway. Lalaurab village is built on dark basaltic sand and generous, welcoming people. I pulled in at lunch time as the whole village either watched or raced the outrigger canoes around the bay. It was a special memorial race as a young wife has recently died. As soon as I stepped out of the kayak and took hold of the proffered coconut I felt at home. The tent is set up under a stilted house and as I look at it now I see 10 hours of unconscious sleep- I'm knackered and have to wake at 4am again.

Try tuning in to Charles Woolley's radio show again, Wednesday at 9.17am, for a second go at a chat.

Location: Camp 7 Gavuone Village, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 19th May

Jumped out of the tent under moonlight with bottle of mozzie repellant in hand. Liberally doused in DEET I sloshed happily through the mud and was on the water to see the glowing orange moon set. Soon after the sun rose and I steered into Moapa village for morning mango and water. A church elder led me to his home for sweet tea and coconut biscuits. Half the village came with us. The coast turned ENE so the wind came from the side as much as the front (is that forequarter mariners- or is that just for lamb chops?). Slow and steady progress throughout the day and I am at Gavuone village at the Rev. Puele's house. It's perched on the headland with spacious grassy surrounds and simply enormous mango trees towards the church. Nearly cracked 30km I
think- it took over 9 hours and I will sleep like a buried yam tonight.

And sorry if you tuned into the radio this morning, I had the phone on but didn't get the call- maybe another time.

Location: Camp 6 147-57-00E, 10-7-30S, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 18th May

There's something rattling in the mangroves. It's coming from where I drained the tinned tuna. Looking with squinted eyes through the
mesh tent the whole ground comes alive. Crabs! Big and small, with shell and without, they're on the move. Ended up in the mangroves tonight which is never ideal but luckily there's a camp track cut through from a raised sandy platform to the mudflats. It was a day of lucky escapes actually. This morning very nearly saw me stranded on a large, rapidly draining sandy shoal. Just enough water to drag it off without unloading. Another 5am launch and another 20 ish kms before the wind came hard.

Tune in to Charles Woolley's radio show, Monday at 9.15 am, I'll be on the bat phone for a chat.

Location: Camp 5 - Hula Village, PNG
Time: 5.30pm, 17th May

Did I say a midnight start? I must've been dehydrated. Managed to be on the water before 5 and have made it to Hula village. For breakfast I stopped at a small village and was given 6 mangoes. Later in the magroves, out of the wind, I ate 3 with predictable result. Pastor Walo has taken me in at Hula. We went to look at his newly turned field for yams and tapioca, and then to say hello to the men cleaning up the shrine commemorating the arrival of the first missionary in 1876. Later we had many helping hands to retieve the kayak from the mud flats and I sat down to talk to these students about life in Hula and Port Moresby. All are hoping to get to university. There is a man in the market area yelling 'god is good' to his congregation and the kids throw sticks at mangoes far above.

Location: Camp 4 - Between Coastal Villages SE Coast, PNG
Time: 3.30pm, 16th May

Gabone village is a few kms inland but fishing is still nambawan (number one). After helping pull the net in I was given a drinking coconut. I could have taken a few fish like the other haulers but didn't want to stink up the cabin so early in the day. The owner of the net (yellow t-shirt) keeps most of the catch.

The luarabada came in earlier today and I was cooked like a mudcrab by noon. Have only progressed 70-75 kms from Port Moresby in four days! Will wake at midnight and get some easier paddling while the wind sleeps. Am camped between coastal villages on the traditional land of the Gabone people. The GPS is dead so the coordinates for the map are taken as best I can from the large scale map using my ruler and guesswork. The curses of a thousand biting insects have taken the edge off the jellyfish sting. Apparently paw-paw ointment does not cure everything.

Location: Camp 3 - Just short of Seri Point, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 15th May
A tiny fishing canoe with canvas sail passes on the fading tradewind. Two villagers are dragging a net through the shallows up the beach, while a third shepherds the catch in with a long water whacking stick. Later they pass and offer me their catch but I've already eaten and they have a 45 minute walk back to their inland village. Wouldn't be fair to go empty handed.

Thankfully the morning saw light winds as I farewelled the extended family at 6.30. It wasn't until well beyond the stretch of mangroves, and then Gabagaba village that the laurabada (Motu for tradewind) arrived. At midday I pulled in just short of Seri Point, 3-4 kms past Gabagaba. My burnt hands and light sensitive jellyfish sting have kept me subdued under the tarp all afternoon. Here's a question- I've been swallowing instead of spitting when brushing my teeth. My thinking is that since I'm not drinking fluorinated water this will compensate. Am I harming myself?

Location: Camp 2 - Just short of Gaire, PNG
Time: 7.00pm, 14th May

Like paddling through honey, but not as sweet. I came up with that line to distract from the bludgeoning headwind. This afternoon I decided dragging the kayak along the shallows would be faster. It was, but unfortunately I was stung by a jellyfish and had to go back to sea. My right foot still feels on fire. Mid afternoon, after about 20km and just short of the village Gaire, I pulled up exhausted. Tom and his son Tau had come in from fishing and invited me to camp here. We ate tapioca and fish and talked all afternoon. Better progress today but I'll have to make the most of the mornings, the arvos are pure torment. I have nine blisters and sunburnt hands, but I'll toughen up!

Location: Camp 1 - island south east of Port Moresby, PNG
Time: 6.00pm, 13th May
Aching shoulders, fresh blisters and a relieved smile can only mean one thing, we're off and away. The brutal south east trade wind, woeful muscle tone, and shallow reefs have limited progress to about 10 kms. That's my best guess using the 1:2000000 map anyway. The GPS is not working. Any suggestions why a Magellan 310 (been around a long while) would be picking up satellites but not spitting out the coordinates are welcome. You can find me by heading south east from Port Moresby inside the reef, until reaching a headland that marks a deep north-east trending embayment a few kms wide. From the headland I paddled through the protecting reef and crossed to the smaller of two near islands. Google Earth it if you dare!

Surprisingly I am not alone. Joe and his two pastors were dropped off by boat for three days of fasting and praying. Saw many delightful creatures today including a jumping sting-ray and a few small sharks.

Thanks for the messages regarding the change of plan- you're all invited for the Fly River Odyssey Part 2: Deliverance, date yet to be announced! Good night from this happy camper.

Location: Port Moresby, PNG
Time: 2.00pm, 12th May

Change of plans! At 1am on Friday I was restlessly looking at the maps and feeling uneasy with the days events. Since learning of the fatal shipping mistake I'd been changing my mind on what to do, minute by minute. First it was to immediately get to Port Moresby and take possession of the kayak. Then I thought I could be patient and wait it out in Kiunga. But at 1am, and without being sure, I committed myself to getting a plane back to Port Moresby. I think it was the uncertainty of waiting that tipped the scales, I just had to get on the water. So on Saturday morning I rang the airline to book a seat. Their entire fleet had been grounded for an unexpected safety check. It was looking unhappily like a Tuesday flight until a sp