South West Tasmania
Daily Report
26 October 2010- Hobart
Words of the day: Warming up (The next report will appear on the PNG page, it'll be a lot warmer over there!)
There was only one important job for this morning after packing up the tent- playing cards while we waited for the plane to arrive. 
After 28 days of hunting around the wilderness for signs of a Tassie tiger it's all over... well, at least it's half over. We can safely say that we did not find any tigers lurking in the mountains, plains or forests around Bathurst Harbour and Port Davey. We did not see any tigers swimming across a tannin stained river and we definitely did not witness any tigers chasing down a wallaby for breakfast. So was it all a waste of time? NO WAY! We did find carnivorous marsupials like the Tasmanian devil and spotted-tailed quoll, we did find nibbly little critters like the potoroo, pademelon and Bennetts wallaby. We struggled through a patch of Horizontal and smelled the pongy flowers of the native plum. We felt the itch of a leech bite and listened to the yodelling of the currawong early in the morning (very early sometimes).
The forum is bursting with ideas, questions and students helping me understand the biodiversity of South West Tasmania. But the hunt now turns from the windy corner to the warm corner. On Saturday I'll fly to Brisbane, then Port Moresby, then Tari, and then who knows. Cheyne Benjamin will be joining me with two local guides. Our plan is to trek down to the Strickland River and canoe to Obo. It should take 4 weeks but we have no real idea. We'll be finding out about the plants and animals of a new place, a place that used to be home to Tassie tigers- and maybe still is!
For the rest of this week I'll be in Hobart preparing, charging batteries, judging the Tiger Cat Competition (results posted on the forum Thursday), and checking the forum regularly. There won't be daily reports until next Sunday when we (Cheyne and myself) should be in Port Moresby. A whole new world of adventure is about to begin. Students that have been with us so far, stay on board- students that want to join for the tropical hunt, welcome!
Before I sign off from the South West leg of the Tassie Tiger Hunt I'd like to quickly say a few thankyou's; Janet and Geoff Fenton who let me use the Puffin Fantastic (I love that kayak!), Parks and Wildlife, Par Avion, Sea to Summit, Upstream Paddle (Peter Ringland for the use of the remote sensing cameras), students who posted questions and comments and the wonderful experts who took the time to answer to them. There's a tingle in my belly which must mean things are about to get really, really ... unpredictable.
25 October 2010- Melaleuca
Bird of the day: Orange-bellied parrot
Word of the day: Endangered (how many bird species are endangered in Australia... roughly?)
This is the last full day in the South West on our mission to answer the question, "Is the Tasmanian tiger really extinct?" Last night was the final time I'll strap the camouflaged cameras to a tree trunk, sprinkle a few oats or nut crumbs on an animal track and sneak quietly back to the tent. This morning, with fingers crossed, I collected the cameras and sat down to check on the night's activity. A solitary potoroo was in the picture. It hadn't even tried to dress up like a tiger, happy just to nibble on an oat and continue its journey between forest and buttongrass plain.
We packed up for the walk back to Melaleuca. On the track we saw more grasshoppers than usual, two ground parrots, the tracks of quolls, wombats and wallabies, melaleuca and sprengelia in flower and thousands of mud chimneys for the fantastic burrowing crayfish. Around the old mining site Ian found a fully submerged tiger snake, probably hunting frogs, and the highly endangered orange-bellied parrot (pictured) flew in for a feed at the observation hut. So far this year 11 have returned to breed. They, like the Tassie tiger, may never be seen again before too much longer.
We're all catching the plane tomorrow, with the final report from the South West to follow. Then.... PNG!
24 October 2010- New Harbour
Animal of the day: Cuttle-fish (is a cuttle-fish really a fish?)Word of the day: Nibbled (How about a five line poem with words that rhyme with nibbled!)
There were no animals recorded on the cameras this morning. That was surprising because New Harbour is an old campsite in the coast vegetation where nocturnal animals are common. In summer, when there are hordes of bush walkers dotted along the coast, it always pays to put your food bags in an air tight bag in your pack or tent. Sometimes in the morning you will find little holes nibbled through bags by toothy marsupials and mice. Maybe it's because nobody has been here, according to the log book, since mid April; or maybe we just had the cameras in bad spots?
We spent the morning reaching Smoke Signal Hill and decided walking to the top of New Harbour Range would required more dedication then we could cobble together. The view down to Cox Bluff and Maatsuyker Island was worth the effort and left time for an afternoon swim. Nic found the surfboard shaped remains of a cuttle-fish and we wondered what a live animal looked liked swimming, and what the surfboard shaped part is called. We are about to go and place the cameras for another try to tonight.
23 October 2010- New Harbour
Bird of the day: Pied oystercatcher
Word of the day: Beach (Which beach is the most famous in Australia? Hint: not this one.)
The team has split up into two groups. Team A (Dad, Ian and Jim) are maintaining a vigil in the Melaleuca hut and plan to use short bursts of energy to explore the surrounding hills and plains. Team B (Nic, Bill, Dan and myself) have walked down to the south coast at New Harbour beach. There was no hurry to leave the hut this morning as the tail end of the cold front brought heavy showers. The track is very good but with sections of mud after the turn-off from the South Coast Track. Bill was in quite a hurry at the front of the group and ploughed through the bogs with a confidence unmatched by reality. Several times he sunk to his knees and was slowed down. On the beach we saw hooded plovers and pied oystercatchers hovering around the water mark. Through the heads we can see Maatsuyker Island with the white buildings and lighthouse sticking out. Volunteers spend three months at a time out there observing the weather and keeping everything working. It must surely be one of the wildest places in the world to experience a big storm, way out there in the ocean on top of an island! Tomorrow we hope to explore the New Harbour Range and I have set the cameras up to record what hops along in the night. Only a few more days in the South West so it's good to share it with others.
22 October 2010- Melaleuca
Mineral of the day: Cassiterite
Word of the day: Mineral (Have you ever played the game 'Animal, vegetable, mineral- 20 questions?)
I awoke with a stiff back but a spring in my step- today was PEOPLE DAY. Paddling into Claytons Corner to return some books I saw the flash of red tail coming from the Hobart direction, it was Par Avion bringing in Nic (YTBC on the forum), Dad, Bill, Dan, Jim and Ian- more tiger hunters to help. But then the plane appeared to circle the airstrip and head off through to Cox's Bight. Too windy to land, I thought, and paddled on with a little less enthusiam. Still, better to have no visitors than visitors upside down in an plane off the end of the runway. Pulling in at the camping area I walked up to the huts and recognised a backpack sitting outside the Charles King memorial hut. Aha, they had landed after all, PEOPLE DAY was back on!
So it's been a day of catching up on news and wandering around Melaleuca to soak up some history. The King's and Willson's were mainly looking for cassiterite. That's a mineral that holds a metal that we all use in one way or another- do you know what that metal is?
21 October 2010- North Inlet area
Tree of the day: Horizontal (yep, that's the name of a tree, can you find out why?)
Word of the day: Endemic (Is the Horizontal endemic?)
More spotted-tailed quoll, wallaby and either an southern brown bandicoot or a potoroo. It was a busy night in the forest and as I went to sleep I could hear the louder residents bouncing through the camp. It was a shock to wake up to a clear sky and sunrise over the Ray Range this morning, so many days recently have started with rain. The first little adventure was to investigate a waterfall coming off the side of Mt Rugby. It was a struggle through the Horizontal and creekside jungle to reach the foot of it. This smaller waterfall in the photo is on the creek coming back down. Instead of going through the bush I stayed right in the middle of the creek... wetter but easier! There were small freshwater fish in the pools, I wonder if Qug (forum expert) might know what they were? About 10cm long, slender and shaped like a torpedo. The second little adventure was to paddle up the North River as far as the Puffin Fantastic would go. About 1.5 km upstream the current was too strong and we turned for home.
Tomorrow is a special day because I'll be joined at Melaleuca by Nic and some family and friends. Time to start practicing my conversation skills again. And I'm very much looking forward to the salad roll that Nic is bringing down (hint, hint).
20 October 2010- North Inlet area
Plant of the day: Pandani (pronounced pan-danny)
Word of the day: Individual (how many different words of 3 letters or more can you make from individual?)
Both cameras recorded spotted-tailed quolls last night. The are probably the same individual, wondering how lucky it was to find two separate piles of peanuts on it's forest run
in the one night. I skidded up Bathurst Channel, much like yesterday, in wildly crooked lines and without much control. The track up Mt Rugby can't be reached by foot as it starts on the water's edge a long and scrubby way from the Port Davey track. I tied the Puffin Fantastic to a banksia and put waterproof pants and raincoat on. It had been raining during the morning and last night and the scrub was loaded with water. I was quickly saturated. Near the top I rested on a rock overlooking North Inlet just as a wedge-tailed eagle (let your dad know Xavier) rose slowly from below, only 30 meters away! The markings on it's wings and back are a side of a wedgie you don't normally see when its flying. It tilted it's head from side to side searching for something a bit smaller than me to swoop upon. After a quick bite to eat on top I raced back to the kayak to warm up and paddled around to camp near North Inlet. There is a promising wet forest behind me and I'm 75% confident we'll get at least 2 different species on the cameras tonight.
19 October 2010- Joe Page Bay
Marsupial of the day: Eastern quoll
Word of the day: Gulch (Would you expect to find mulch in a gulch? What is mulch?)
I'd love the cameras to catch sight of an eastern quoll. They are smaller and jumpier than their close cousin with the spotted tail. Maybe tonight, because I've left Port Davey and come back into the sheltered waters of Bathurst Channel at Joe Page Bay. The paddle back to the Breaksea Islands was as windy as last time but in behind them it was like being on a different world. The waves and chop spraying into my face disappeared and the constant roar of wind sneaking under the hat vanished. I was prepared with the camera this time and took this photo of the gulch with the blowhole (no mulch that I could see in there). Turning towards the channel I was helped by a tailwind. I just about stopped paddling to keep the Puffin Fantastic going in a straight line. We weren't doing very well at straight lines actually, especially when we caught the chop and surfed along ending up sideways. Oh for the joys of the retractable rudder!
I found a clear patch in the tea-trees on this point and pitched the tent after lunch. Across the water is a great view of Mt Rugby which I might climb tomorrow.
18 October 2010- Spain Bay
Invertebrate of the day: Leech
Word of the day: Habitat (what type of habitat do leeches love?)
I wonder if there's less nocturnal activity when it's raining? This spotted-tailed quoll was the only animal photographed last night (have a close look and see if you can tell if it's male or female), but there's lots of other signs that more 
animals live at Spain bay. A wombat has been scratching for juicy roots and something, a bird of some type, has ripped apart a dead log looking for grubs. A leech is suckering (how would you describe how a leech moves?) up the outside of the tent, looking for the source of heat that it can sense. But the zip is closed so it will have to go hungry.
Steady rain kept me in the tent this morning but it cleared up and I walked over to Stephens Bay. Wow! I found whale bones, a recently washed up fur seal (dead), and the aboriginal midden is HUGE. Just about the whole southern end of the bay is a collection of shells, bones, cutting stones and other evidence of human presence. The view down to South West Cape was also spectacular with dark clouds sweeping across the sky in between patches of sun.
17 October 2010- Spain Bay
Bird of the day: Short-tailed shearwater (what's the other common name for this bird?)
Word of the day: North (I took this photo this afternoon from the western end of Spain Bay, what are the islands directly north?)
Returned back to the kayak on James Kelly Basin and paddled out to Whaler's Point in relative calm. The waves were crashing into the rocks heavily and I could just see distant white caps where I needed to go. Luckily the wind swung around to the WNW and became a strong tailwind. Unluckily a huge 3-4 meter SW swell was still marching in from the Southern Ocean and it started to get messy. Add some rebound waves (called clapotis) off Kathleen Island and my journey to the North Passage was feeling more like a journey to the North Pole. Finally snuck in behoind the Breaksea Islands with a big sigh of relief. Foam was being created from the tannin-rich water being bashed into the rocks and then it was picked up off the ocean and floated down like snow. The plants on the islands look different to the mainland with big patches of pigface (i think) and tussocky grass. It makes them look camouflaged like an army uniform from a distance. There is also a large shearwater rookery on the steep slopes. I then headed south to Spain Bay and found a great campsite.
Nothing on the cameras last night (how good is Col's tiger tale today!) but hopeful of a wombat tonight. Walking to Noyhener Beach to continue the hunt tomorrow.
16 October 2010- Quail Beach
Plant of the day: Swamp melaleuca
Word of the day: tangle (add three letters to make a new word that is not a tangle.)
It hasn't rained much today but it has HAILED plenty. Paddling across James Kelly Basin I was hit with the first of it bouncing off my poor blue knuckles. The wind and swell was too much to consider paddling down to Spain Bay as planned so I decided to come and see what 20-30 knots on a predicted 4-6 meter swell looks like. The fastest way to the coast was to paddle across James Kelly Basin and then walk across to Quail beach. The last stretch into the beach was a shocker with chest high melaleuca turning into a head high tangle and further deteriorating into a wild bash to the sand. The surf is pounding in and the wind is whipping sand everywhere so I found a sheltered spot behind the main dunes to camp. There are some beautifully exposed aboriginal middens so I've had to be careful not to disturb them. Can anyone tell me what I might expect to find in a midden? On the cameras last night there was another Tassie devil, this one smaller with a strip of white across the chest, and also wallaby and pademelon. Not sure what we'll find tonight but I'll set the cameras further back in the scrub. I can't imagine too many animals enjoying a stroll down the beach right this minute- it's wild out there!
15 October 2010- Bond Bay
Word of the day: garden (If you could only eat three vegetables for the rest of your life, what would they be?)
8am- Just had breakfast (2 handfuls oats, 1 handful sultanas, 2 tablespoons crushed nuts, milk powder and a coffee). Haven't left the tent yet. Raining steadily since 2.30am. Reading Voyage of the Endeavour for second time, Hopeful it will clear a little by lunchtime.
10am- Sprinted out to collect the 2 cameras. Caught a brush tailed possum, which is interesting because they are common in all parts of Tasmania EXCEPT the South West corner. My book on Tas mammals by Dave Watts says their preferred habitat is sclerophyll forests, woodlands, agricultural and urban areas. They are absent from areas of extensive rainforest and sedgeland (this area is extensive sedgeland with pockets of wet sclerophyll forest). Still raining so still in tent.
11am- Aha! The rain has stopped so I've just eaten an early lunch and am kayaking across to Garden Point, will explore on foot from there. Just saw a blue wren too.
4pm- Back from Garden Point. Lots of Bennett's wallaby amongst the pigface, coastal wattle and boggy grass fields. Also piles of wombat droppings but none in the flesh (despite my hunting around every corner with camera ready). Karate choopped stinging nettle by accident and regret that now. Wind has picked up from the south west. Hail and rain sweeping through, looks like a cold night ahead. It may be too windy to paddle south tomorrow?
14 October 2010- Bond Bay
Marsupial of the day: Tasmanian Devil
Word of the day: Mystery (Complete this proposed book title, "Settlement Point and the Mystery of ..."
The crash of branches snapping woke we with a start last night. Then I thought I heard the beating of powerful wings, perhaps an owl? This morning one of the cameras was knocked to the ground (it hadn't been tied to a tree as normal) and I wondered if that had anything to do with the noise last night. I was delighted to find two photos of this devil and a third blurry shot where I suspect it has broken the twigs that were suspending the camera. The camera may then have fallen on the devil, given it a fright and caused it to bolt. The sound of the beating wings remains a mystery. The other camera captured (excuse me if i blush) two potoroos in a private moment and I dare not publish that photo without their permission. All in all it was a surprising night in the forest, full of brutish devils and amorous potoroos. The short paddle to Bond Bay was helped by a strong nor-westerly wind which is, I think, the first tailwind for the Puffin Fantastic. The afternoon was spent beach combing for footprints to the northern end of the bay. There's definitely spotted tailed quoll, wombat, Bennett's wallaby, and I think devil and one I'm not sure about. Camping near the old house site of Clyde and in Clayton I can't help thinking what a beautiful but terribly isolated home it must have been. Excellent spot if you like fossicking for shells and driftwood however. Can't wait for Janet Fenton's book on Port Davey which is coming out soon (maybe in the new year?). Tomorrow I'll try and follow James Kelly Basin as far as I can by foot, looking for more animal tracks. This has to be the best spot so far for finding that particularly elusive thylacine.
13 October 2010- Davey and Dewitt river day trip
Marsupial of the day: Common wombat
Word of the day: Folded (Find out what it takes to fold a rock!)
The Puffin Fantastic hid behind a rock as the Davey River raced past, spinning off eddies unpredictably. One hand gripped the cold quartzite rock and the other snapped a shaky photo. All of yesterday's rain was still working its way down the river system and I decided that rapids are definitely not my cup of hot milo. I'd only reached part of the way up the first gorge but what I could see was amazing. Huon pine, leatherwood, native laurel and flowering heath clung to whatever pockets of soil were there. The rest was bare layered rock, folded gently and tipped on its end like a stack of cards. Floating back down stream the black swans and cormorants honked and flapped and a wombat nibbled on the grassy lawn beside the river. It squinted in my direction, sniffed the air, looked to be in two minds and finally barreled back into the thick scrub to safety.
The Dewitt River is smaller but just as enjoyable to follow upstream over barely submerged logs and snags. A newly felled leatherwood couldn't be passed and I turned back. Two azure kingfishers darted after each other between the overhanging branches. I managed to get one decent photo which I'll have to show you on return home. Back at Settlement Point I found a grave, some running water and half a brick but there's not much to show from so much human activity 130-140 years ago.
12 October 2010- Settlement Point, Davey River
Bird of the day: Little penguin
Word of the day: Settlement (what would you expect to find at an 1870's settlement in the South West... in the 1870's?)
I didn't put on the raincoat before paddling this morning and that was a mistake. From the weather forecast and observing the white-caps beyond Bramble Cove it was obvious that the nor-wester was blowing truly. Around the first few sheltered corners the first spots of rain arrived. Around a few more and the full force of the front moving through was felt. I stayed close to the coast hoping for pockets of calmer air, and behind Kathleen Island it was decent enough to allow a short break. At Ashley Point I was tiring and cut through a narrow sea-arch, surfing between the thick bull kelp. The wind eased and I reversed into a 50m long wave-cut cave. For a few moments I was out of the rain, surrounded by three dark walls with a neat square opening to the grey skies outside. Coffin Bay sounded like it had a story but the beach smelled of rotting kelp so I paddled on to the Davey River, passing 2 Little penguins on the way. Now with no wind but torrential rain I had to find a campsite. If the downpour would just take a break I might warm up and keep everything dry while dashing between kayak and tent. Piners Point and Blackwater Creek didn't look inviting so it was over to Settlement Point where in the 1870's a small outpost survived on the short-lived huon pine business.
The tarp is draped over a hole in the ground with the corners pegged out to catch a puddle of water, as there is no creek here. But the pots catching the drips off the tent fly will probably be enough anyway. I hear it's clearing tomorrow, I hope so.
11 October 2010- Bramble Cove
Marsupial of the day: pademelon
Word of the day: View (what is the next land directly south of Tasmania, and directly west?)
The cameras never lie and this looks a lot like a small wallaby we call a pademelon. Sometimes it's also called a Rufous wallaby but I think it's more melon shaped than roof shaped. The cameras were also set during the day while I climbed the mountains behind Bramble Cove and they caught a couple of mischievous forest ravens eating my small pile of rolled oats.
The campsite is alive with many different birds and the warmer weather has brought mosquitoes and ants out of hiding too. After todays walk I had to have a swim and a decent wash. The sea water is warmer than the creek water even though it is still brown from the fresh water brought in by Bathurst Channel and the Davey River. And the Davey is where I'm headed tomorrow if the northerly settles down.
If you have an enrty for the Tiger Cat Competition:
Go to main forum page, click on **Tiger Cat Competition**
Then to put in your entry: create a 'new topic' by clicking the 'new topic' blue and red button
In the subject line write: [your usename] and title
Then enter your creative story in the text box below.
Click 'submit'
Otherwise we might miss your entry and you won't have a chance to win a t-shirt that's too big for you.
10 October 2010- Bramble Cove
Insect of the day: Bumblebee (Native or introduced?)
Word of the day: balance (What is the opposite of balance?)
The task today was to paddle down to Melaleuca, stuff a few bags full of food, head back to Clayton's, stuff the kayak with everything else and paddle through the Bathurst Channel to Bramble Cove. It all went smoothly except for one embarrassing incident. Back at Melaleuca a Par Avion tour group had flown in for the day. They were having morning tea next to King's boatshed where I was filling the Puffin Fantastic with supplies. Stuart, the pilot, had just noticed the call of an orange-bellied parrot (one of the first to arrive for this years breeding season) and the tourists were tucking into biscuits and coffee. With everything set to go I attempted to enter the Puffin Fantastic from the landing platform. The water level was 50 cm below decking so I carefully lowered my feet in first and prepared to slide gracefully into the water and give a farewell wave over my shoulder. Then, of course, I lost my balance and before anyone could say, "Do you want a Tim-Tam with that?" I was standing waist deep in chilly water beside an overturned kayak. Stuart helped without even laughing (sign of a good tour guide) as I muttered, "Never have been much good at this kayaking."
The rest of the day was without blemish. I plan to climb Mt Stokes and Mt Berry tomorrow and will set the cameras up near the beach where there are HEAPS of animal tracks. Keep an eye on the forum for Col Bailey's fantastic Tiger Tales this week too, the first one about Reg and Lucy is a ripper.
9 October 2010- Clayton's Corner
Plant of the day: Tasmanian mountain pepper (chew on a leaf for a delightful tingle on your tongue.)
Word of the day: Volunteer (Is this someone who climbs volcanoes, or something else?)
Reclining in a cushioned chair, a cheerful open fire warming my toes and the shelf stacked with unread books... that doesn't sound like a tiger hunting day! But here at Clayton's Corner my fortunes have turned for the better. After a morning spent chewing down every hard fought centimeter thanks to the persistent westerly, I landed at this little slice of civilisation in the South West. Clyde and Winsome Clayton lived here and at Bond's Bay from the early 1940's. Win was the daughter of tin miner Charles King and brother of Deny, Clyde was a hardy west and south coast fisherman. In its prime this house had electricity (still has the sockets), hot and cold water (bathtub in working order) and even a TV (in the corner looking a bit dusty). I've spent the afternoon reading through the visitor's books and can't believe how many, must be thousands of people, have been warmed by the fire and sheltered from the weather here. Parks and Wildlife and the volunteers group Friends of Clayton's do an excellent job to maintain it.
No bites on the cormorant corpse this morbid morning and both cameras had zero animal activity to recorded. But I did see a small furry mammal sniffing around the water's edge. It may have been a native rat or antechinus? Dave Watt's Tasmanian mammal book is my reference but there are several small furry things to choose from? The plan tomorrow is to paddle back to Melaleuca, collect the remaining food and head out to Port Davey. There are several places of thylacine interest including the Davey River, Bond Bay and Stephens Bay.
8 October 2010- Trixies Cove, Bathurst Harbour
Bird of the day: White-bellied Sea Eagle
Word of the day: carrion (Would a gentle wombat eat carrion?)
It's not a Tassie tiger but it is a Tiger Cat! Another photo shows that it has spots right down it's tail. If you can tell me its other common name and invent a creative story to explain how it got it's spots (the long and strictly true story that involves evolution and natural selection is not what the judges are after), you'll win a t-shirt. Yay- but probably not one that fits as there are only a few adult sizes left in the box. But still... yay! Post your entry as an individual or class group on the froum by 25 October under the 'Tiger Cat Competition' heading, and keep your answer to a few sentences to be in with a chance.
After retrieving the cameras this morning I pushed out of Moulters Inlet with a strong headwind. The aim was to reach the base of Mt Rugby and investigate the waterfall that can be seen pouring off it's lower slopes. Just a short time later I sheltered in Trixies Cove for a break. Hopping out of the kayak I could see some activity behind a fallen tree about 20 m along the shore. To be sneaky I slid back into the water and reversed the kayak quietly. There was no movement now, but I could see feathers lying everywhere. Back out of the kayak in my best stalking pose I found a cormorant lying quite dead on the grassy bank with, let's just say, a few bits missing. It was a golden opportunity to set a camera near the fresh kill so I abandoned the waterfall idea completely.
I'm now camped on the opposite side of Trixies Cove and have positioned the other camera also. I noticed a White-bellied Sea Eagle hovering overhead this afternoon and suspect that's what plucked the cormorant? Hopefully the camera captures a few carrion eaters tonight.
7 October 2010- Moulter's Inlet
Plant of the day: Cutting grass (Gahnia grandis)
Word of the day: thermal (In the fashion world, who might wear thermals?)
Nothing on the cameras this morning so I was determined to move camp. The only problem being that the trees were bending over backwards in a fierce gale. Bathurst Harbour did not look like a great place to be in a kayak, unless you wanted to work on your abdominal muscles. The tent was flapping madly and I could feel the ice in the air from the snowfalls on the nearby peaks. Brrr. Knowing I wouldn't get far I decided on Moulter's Inlet, just a few kilometers around the corner. After throwing some sticks over the tent site you'd hardly know I'd ever been there. Sticking to Leave No Trace wilderness principles is important in a place like this. See if you can find out what the 7 LNT priciples are? Into the Puffin Fantastic with thermals, raincoat and wetsuit boots on firmly. The first foaming spray hitting my warm hands was a shock but I moved steadily across the wind and then into it. Staying close to the shore I crawled up to Moulter's Inlet and through the calmer entrance. A cormorant sat on a rock and ignored the strange spectacle as I paddled towards the Ray River. After finding a slightly sheltered clear spot for the tent I pushed through a thin band of cutting grass and up the nearby hill for today's photo. It's been a wild day, I wonder what the wind speed recorded on Maatsuyker Island was? You can find out on the BOM site, in the observations section I think. The cameras are set up and with a bit of luck we'll have a wombat on file by morning!
6 October 2010- Bathurst Harbour near Bathurst Creek
Animal of the day: This one!
Word of the Day: Camera (Is there a Toyota Camera or am I thinking Toyota Camry?)
As I climbed back over the Ray Range (sweating) all I could think about was what the two remote sensing cameras might have captured. Wallaby, Spotted tailed quoll, wombat, Tassie devil... tiger? The first one was set over a wombat track and had recorded 7 photos. None of them had an animal in shot. The second camera was set near a creek and had, wait for it, 107 photos recorded. Wow. But 105 of them were of this same little mouse or rat. The two other photos were of a larger furry animal that might just be a potoroo?
I've put them in new locations for tonight but if the wind holds off I'll move camp tomorrow and continue the search. Another interesting beastie I saw today was a small snake in the buttongrass plain behind the harbour. It wasn't a whip snake because they're olive green or dusty black usually and this one had distinctively mottled tan and brown markings all over its back. It was about 15 cm long and might have been a tiger snake. Would there be baby tiger snakes around at the moment?
The weather was fine and sunny after a cloudy start but I can see dark clouds building behind Mt Rugby. There might be some wind and rain on the way as forecast.
5 October 2010- Position unchanged, R&R
Insect of the Day: Jack Jumper ant (dusty black with red or orange nippers)
Word of the Day: Restful (Think of five words ending with -ful to describe your day.)
Wind weaving through valleys and over mountain tops can be frightfully loud. In the dark hours of this morning I could hear powerful gusts racing towards the tent long before they were felt. As the tent bucked and shivered I reached up to steady the single pole just in case. Then the gust would pass and another rumble would get louder and the tent would shake all over again. Heavy rain this morning also convinced me that a full day of rest was a sensible idea and I haven't strayed more than a radius of 20 m from camp all day.
The weather has improved remarkably and several times, while reading Rumpole of the Bailey- the First Omnibus, I have questioned the decision to waste so much sunshine in the tent. The other problem with lazing around is that it's tempting to eat extra food. I have now knocked off a packet of Apricot Delights and several bonus rows of chocolate- something I'll regret in the days the come.
For the first time today I noticed blow flies and jack jumper ants. They seem to be a bit like snakes and have the colder months off. Otherwise all is quiet now, just the static of a flowing creek and a few stray gusts of wind reaching the valley floor.
4 October 2010- Ray Range area
Bird of the day: Currawong
Word of the day: Scrub (give two meanings!)
The cameras are set next to a creek running into Bathurst Harbour and beside a wombat track in the tea tree scrub. It'll have to be a fiendishly clever tiger to escape detection... if they live there. Most of the stories about tigers agree that they avoided humans whenever possible, so I have packed up camp and walked over the Ray Range. It was a long slog up the open ridges to High Round Mountain. The wind picked up and a few fat drops of rain thudded in from the north-west horizon. Any thoughts of camping on top were quickly forgotten and I descended steeply to the other side. There is this slimy jelly type substance on the ground which makes it really slippery. Sometimes it was easier to sit down and slide rather than walk. There are two rivers in this valley (the photo is looking out to Gorge Ridge on the Old River), the Watts and the Solly. It looks like tough going to get across and up the Spiro Range so I'll check the weather report (the Yellow Tailed Balck Cockatoo- YTBC- emails it once a day) and decide after dinner. On top of High Round Mountain I saw another Whip snake and a Ground Parrot.
3 October 2010- Bathurst Harbour
Tree of the Day: Huon Pine
Word of the Day: Pffftt (Try and make this sound.)
The photo shows how far the Puffin Fantastic took me up the Old River this afternoon. We reached this small set of rapids and decided sea kayaks (especially borrowed ones) can only go so far. The tree clinging to the middle of the river is a Huon Pine. Its old roots are moss green and creeping carefully over the rounded river stones to hold its place. The paddle from Melaleuca was as calm as the South West can get. Mirror perfect all the way out Melaleuca Inlet, past the Celery Top Islands and over to the mouth of the Old River. Just past Dixson Island I heard the 'pfftt' of a blowhole. It was a long way away but several more 'pfftt's' were clear on the still air. I sat quietly for half an hour and saw a few splashes in the distance but I can't be sure if it was a whale or a pod of dolphins? Bathurst Harbour is very shallow (5-7 m I think) so it seems a strange place to see a whale?
I didn't get back to camp after the Old River exploration until nearly dark so didn't set the remote cameras. I'll find some good spots tomorrow and maybe go searching in the mountains behind camp.
2 October 2010- Melaleuca
Reptile of the Day: White lipped whip snake.
Word of the Day: Grand Final Replay (makes me wonder if this is really worth sending tonight?)
Two of the three species of snake found in tasmania emerged from hibernation today. Actually, that's a good question for Nick Mooney on the forum- where do snakes hibernate and what wakes them up? This morning I spotted a White Lipped Whip Snake and later I saw the back half of a Tiger Snake heading under a clump of cutting grass. Add to that a sighting of the elusive Ground Parrot south of Joan Point and a few wallabies around Melaleuca and it's been a very faunal day. The rain coat came off and the hat went on for the 12 km walk to Melaleuca. I heard a plane buzzing like a mosquito in the distance and knew for sure my extra food and equipment would be waiting. At the airstrip there were 4 planes lined up, 3 from Par Avion and 1 from Tasair. A private plane also flew down shortly afterwards. The sightseers had all departed for the boat tour so I collected my boxes from the shed, grabbed a wheelbarrow and trundled up to the bushwalker's huts.
First a wash in Moth Creek, next lunch, and then to find the kayak at the King's House. Janet and Geoff Fenton are letting me use one that is stored at their place under some man ferns. I dragged it to the water's edge for closer inspection. Instead of properly fitted hatch covers I cut some waterproof fabric roughly to shape (photo) and secured it with elastic cord. It seems to work okay! Launching in for a test paddle I decided to call the kayak 'Puffin Fantastic'. It's a Puffin model and it is definitely fantastic. Let me know if you think of a better name. Back at the hut I split the food into 2 piles for 10 days each. I'll head out to Bathurst Harbour tomorrow with the first supply and come back for the rest later. Adventure awaits... but for now it's just me and a packet of Chocolate Ripple biscuits.
1 October 2010- Joan Point, Bathurst Narrows
Bird of the Day: Wedge Tailed Eagle
Word of the Day: Evidence (What is the evidence that tadpoles turn into frogs and not Wedge Tailed Eagles?)
I've lost count of the number of puddles on the track that are wriggling with tadpoles, but only one so far has had frogs. The one pictured was swimming around with at least 5 buddies. It's no bigger than a joint on your finger... anyone tell me what it is? I'm guessing it's a fairly common frog if all those tadpoles belong to the same species. Last night it rained so much that the creek I was camped beside rose about 1 meter. Instead of wet socks I was soaked from the waist down after wading across. Not the best way to start the day! The track was up and down along low ridges so the views over Spring River and Mt Rugby were awesome. Two Wedge Tailed Eagles circled far above Joe Page Bay as I ate lunch- 8 Sesame Wheats with Nutella and a cup of tannin stained creek water. Not too bad, except the Nutella was so hard I had to carve it out in chunks with my knife.
I reached Farrell Point and decided to row across and camp on Joan Point. You have to leave a row boat on each bank for the next person so that means 3 trips across.
And finally, one to think about over the weekend. I need your help to decide where to search for Tassie tigers after I reach Melaleuca. I'll start by kayaking to the Old River for a look but after that it's up to you. Look on the map or Google Earth anywhere around Bathurst Harbour and Port Davey and post your suggestions on the forum.
30 September 2010- Spring River, Port Davey Track
Amphibian of the day: Tadpole (Is a tadpole an amphibian?
Word of the Day: Nocturnal (Reverse the letters of nocturnal, say it aloud... does it make sense?)
The object in the photo today has come out of at least one end of an animal. It is mainly made up of fur and is about 5cm long. The only scat I'm really good at identifying is wombat (one for another day), so can anyone help with this? Might have to ask an expert?
The weather improved today with only passing showers. The wind is lighter so I suspect Par Avion flew down with the extra gear. I'll pick it up from Melaleuca in a few days. For most of the day I was walking on a beautifully benched (cut into the side of a hill) track that was originally made in 1898 as an escape route for shipwrecked sailors. In many of the many puddles I noticed dozens of little tadpoles. Not sure which species of frog they belonged to but I do know of safer places to be a tadpole!
Planning to camp at Bathurst Narrows tomorrow as my feet are very sore. Oh, and for Forth 5/6D, I am eating lots of pasta, rolled oats and just a little chocolate to keep me warm.
29 September 2010- Port Davey Track
Crustacean of the Day: Freshwater burrowing crayfish
Word of the Day: Hail (What diameter is the largest recorded hail stone?)
There are lots of different ways nature can get you wet; ordinary old rain, sleet, snow and hail being the most common. Today I had a little of each. I lay in the tent surrounded by a thin layer of snow as long as possible this morning but when a ray of sunshine snuck through the tea-tree it ws time to get walking. I squeezed the socks out and pulled on all the wet thermals from yesterday. On the Arthur Plains I could see the Western Arthur Range was flecked white all the way down. A dark squall came racing up the valley with white hail stones spitting out of it sideways. I kept my head down low and watched my step along the exposed buttongrass plain. At Crossing River I was expecting to be forced to camp. All the water from dozens of little creeks feed the river and it was flooded. Luckily someone has set a rope across and I could safely reach the far side. I have camped further down the Port Davey Track. The wind dropped this afternoon and I had a chance to wonder how the little Burrowing crayfish enjoy all this water. Some of their burrows are right on the track and are completely underwater. How do they cope with a flooded home? I've posted this as a question to the experts on the forum. Maybe Dr Niall Doran or Dr Alastair Richardson can help with an answer.
28 September 2010- Junction Creek
Bird of the Day: Yellow Tailed Black Cockatoo
Word of the Day: Saturated
Everything happened in a hurry yesterday afternoon. When I rang Par Avion and they said the plane wouldn't be flying due to bad weather, a new plan was needed. Apart from by boat, the only other way to get started was by walking. I rang Bill Harvey, a friend and supporter of several Tiger Hunt schools.
'Need a huge favour Bill...' He immediately replied that we'd be able to take his Starlet (very small car) down to Lake Pedder where the Port Davey Track begins. The snow was belting down across the high passes and there were a few times we thought the Starlet might falter but by 2pm we arrived at Huon Campground and I set off down the track. Between rain, hail and few thunder claps there were a few patches of blue sky. Four Yellow Tailed Black Cockatoos screeched past and the track looked more like a river in places. The creeks were flooded and some were difficult to cross. My boots and socks were saturated early and I think they won't be dry again for many weeks to come. I am camped well above Junction Creek and it is still raining. The Crossing River may well be too high to cross tomorrow and I haven't seen a Tassie Tiger yet, but at least I'm in with a chance now I'm out in the bush. It's great!
**Breaking News**
27 September 2010
The late breaking news today is that I rang Par Avion this afternoon (they fly bushwalkers and tourists down to Melaleuca) and they advised that the weather is too rough to fly down tomorrow morning as planned.
This was always a possibility so I wasn't too surprised. You can never tell the weather what to do. The earliest flight down looks like being Thursday, but getting out in the bush as soon as possible is the most important thing to consider. A new plan is needed!
I can reach Melaleuca by walking down the Port Davey Track in 3-4 days. If I get lucky with the river crossings (have a look at your South Coast maps to find them) I might even be there faster. But the heavy pack will slow me down...
Par Avion will still be flying extra food, my kayak paddle and other kayaking equipment down to Melaleuca as soon as they can. Hopefully it gets there before I do or I'll just have to wait longer until I can get out on Bathurst Harbour and head for the Old River valley.
From tomorrow the first reports will begin on this page as planned. Look out Tassie tigers, I'm (nearly) on my way to find you...
